Vejer is a wonderful town to base yourself – old and charismatic with plenty of restaurants, but within 40 mins drive there are more than 10 lovely beaches.
CADIZ – 40 mins.
Very historic port town with ugly outskirts but really atmospheric old bit around the cathedral. The geography is very confusing but well worth a park up and stroll. Head for the old historic town and park near the port front. There is a lovely old fish and fruit market near the old town. Remember that shops all close during siesta from 2 – 5.30pm.
MEDINA SIDONIA – 30 mins.
You can see this in the far distance from Vejer, another white town on a hilltop, even steeper and sleepier with incredible views from the summit. There is a lovely old main square that you can sit in and have tapas. It’s also a wonderful drive through windy roads to get there, past fighting bulls in the fields. Turn right on the N340 direction Algeciras, then it’s a turning on the left.
TARIFA – 40 mins
This is windsurf city, but also a funky little town with good shops and bars and lots of restaurants. There’s also a nice hotel, The Hurricanes just before town which is a good base and they do excellent cheap lunches and horseriding.
BOLONIA – 35 mins
On the road to Tarifa, a lovely beach with roman ruins and dunes. try one of the chiringuitos at the eastern side of the beach – we liked los caracoles.
EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARIA – 45 mins.
A charismatic sea-side town, now a cool resort, great in the evenings, if a little packed in high season. There’s a lovely little fun fair for kids but also great bars and restaurants for adults. Eat outside El Romerijo, a famous sea-food place where lobster et al are served in paper and bits go in plastic buckets. If you seek fun it’s in Puerto.
SANLUCAR DE BARRAMEDA – 1 hour
Head for Jerez then it’s signposted, incredible drive. The best sea food in one of the most charming towns in Spain. The old town high up is crumbling aristocratic. Bajo de Guia at the bottom is a wonderfully bedraggled beach, with the best light and even better food. Drink Manazanilla the local wine and get a table at Casa Bigote for the most amazing meal in all Spain. You’ll need to book.
SEVILLE – 1 and half hours
The most ravishing city of them all. If you have a day, then go to this high stepping, exciting, romantic, cultured town. The old town with its narrow rambling streets are atmospheric and the park Maria Luisa is a haven. Be sure to take the AP4 motorway direction Cadiz. It can though be painfully hot in the middle of summer.Cross over the bridge and eat sardines by the river – its one of our favourite things to do.
EAT BY THE SEA
If you want to eat by the sea, which you should, there’s three great options. Closest is Hostal Casa Francisco at El Palmar. Fantastic fish right on this wonderfully bedraggled beach. Just go to the bottom of town on the main road and El Palmar is sign-posted, it’s a beautiful ten minute drive. At the far left hand side of the beach past casa francisco, there is a lovely restaurant with a garden facing the sea, called La Chanca. It is a lovely old converted stables, tel 659 977420.
CONIL – 15 Minutes
In Conil, about 15 minutes on the N340 direction Cadiz, there are two great places where you actually eat on the sand. One is called La Fontanilla (tel 956 440 779) You may need to book to get one of the tables outside on the beach at weekends. Just head to Conil then follow the signs for Hotel Fuerte Conil to the far end of the beach then head down and park by the sand where you’ll see La Fontanilla. This is very recommended. The other restaurants are at the opposite end of the beach, so instead of turning left towards the Hotel Fuerte Conil, turn right, and head for the seafront. The beach itself is a long wide beach, but Conil is unfortunately quite built up.
Barbate is probably two minutes further, heading in the other direction along the N340 when it’s signposted to the right. Head for the beachfront. There is a great fish restaurant, Bar Nani, on the front, which is now also a hotel. It is about half way down the strip, just before the book stands. It’s much more bustling, lots of noisy Spanish families but great fun. There is also a specialist tuna restaurant in one of the squares behind the sea front. There a bunch of business cards left on the dining table, which have full addresses and tel no’s. There is also a specialist tuna restaurant in one of the squares behind the sea front. When you drive into Barbate, take a right of the main road, just before the sea front. I think there is a roundabout with a sign with a fisherman; the restaurant is in avenida de la constitucion and called El Campero. They do a speciality of raw marinated tuna sushi. Tel 956 432 300. Barbate is a working town, not at all pretty, but its where the locals eat and swim and the beach is a lovely fine sand.